(ed: The final chapter of a 3 part series. Find parts 1 and 2 here, respectively.)

When Shoba Narayan was a little girl, she carried an aluminum pail to a man with a skinny cow, and the man was a farmer, and the cow’s udders had to be squeezed. The farmer squeezed the udders and Narayan brought fresh milk home to her mother. Fresh milk comes from a cow, not from a supermarket. Fresh milk is clotted and rich and its cream rises to the top, as it should when milk is fresh and comes from a cow. When her mother boiled the milk it was to set yogurt.